The mother of design

“Shape is the basis of my design”, says Vuokko Nurmesniemi.

The founder of Marimekko, Armi Ratia, first asked Vuokko to design fabrics and, only after that, clothing. Vuokko’s fabric designs were large. She removed all pleats from the clothes she designed, so that they would fit as many people as possible and the big prints would remain intact.

Vuokko´s Elegance dress made of Syvänne fabric.

“Fabric is an entity that cannot be chopped up, otherwise the whole suite will be ruined. This way of thinking and large colour surfaces are my gift to the world and to Marimekko,” said Vuokko. By straightening out the female silhouette, Vuokko also liberated women from corsets. In addition to clear lines, Vuokko’s trademarks also included snap fasteners and zips.

Vuokko´s Myllynkivi dress in the Pallo pattern.

Vuokko’s own idol was Spanish designer Balenciaga, to whose salon show she succeeded in getting an invitation in the 1950s during a visit to Paris. Vuokko trained as a ceramicist, so her way of approaching clothing was through shape, not fashion. “A garment should bring joy to its wearer and, even if it is simple, it must not be boring. That is how to create a classic that will last a lifetime,” says Vuokko.

Loikka overall in Lankku pattern. Chaise longue designed by Antti Nurmesniemi.

The studio home designed by Vuokko´s late husband Antti Nurmesniemi is located in Kulosaari, Helsinki. Antti also designed all the furniture in the house which was completed in 1970 and has since than been a favorite destination of international designers. It is still open to public by appointment.

Photos Kanerva Mantila

Art Direction Mila Pentti

Model Jenny Nieminen / Paparazzi Model Management

Muah Piia Hiltunen

Read the full interview in Fine Finland